Cherry Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme
By Sarah Chen, Certified Master Gardener | Last updated: March 2026
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Cherry tomatoes are the ideal container vegetable for urban gardeners, producing abundant sweet fruit throughout the growing season. Their smaller fruit size means faster maturation and earlier harvests than slicing tomatoes. Compact determinate varieties like 'Tiny Tim' and 'Tumbling Tom' thrive in hanging baskets, while indeterminate types like 'Sweet 100' offer extended harvests with proper support.
Soil Requirements
Rich, well-draining potting mix with added compost. pH 6.2-6.8. Benefits from calcium-rich amendments to prevent blossom end rot.
Temperature Range
65-85°F (18-29°C). Night temperatures below 55°F reduce fruit set. Don't transplant until soil warms to 60°F.
Fertilizer Needs
Heavy feeder. Apply balanced fertilizer at planting, then switch to low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus formula when flowering begins. Feed every 2-3 weeks.
Quick Growing Tips
- Needs support - use cage or stakes
- Remove suckers for larger fruit (optional)
- Consistent watering prevents blossom end rot
- Pick a determinate variety for smaller spaces
- Bury stem deeply when transplanting for stronger roots
Growing Details
Harvest Tips
Pick when fully colored but still firm. Harvest regularly to encourage more fruit.
Companion Planting
Plant with:
Avoid planting with:
Expert Growing Tips
Deep Planting for Strong Roots
Bury tomato stems up to the lowest set of leaves when transplanting. Roots will form along the buried stem, creating a stronger root system and more drought-tolerant plant. This is unique to tomatoes - don't try with other vegetables.
Calcium Boost at Planting
Add crushed eggshells or a tablespoon of garden lime to the planting hole. This provides calcium that prevents blossom end rot. Consistent watering is also critical - calcium uptake requires steady moisture.
Morning Pollination Help
On calm, humid days when bees are less active, gently shake flowering stems mid-morning when pollen is driest. This mimics bee pollination and dramatically improves fruit set, especially for plants on enclosed balconies.
End-of-Season Ripening
Before frost, pick all fruit including green ones. Mature green tomatoes ripen indoors at room temperature (not in sun). Place with a banana to speed ripening. Green tomatoes can also be fried, pickled, or made into relish.
Common Problems & Solutions
Blossom End Rot
Early Blight
Tomato Hornworms
Fruit Cracking
Great Companion Plants
Related Guides & Resources
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are my cherry tomato leaves curling?
Leaf curl has multiple causes: inconsistent watering (most common), herbicide drift, viral disease, or environmental stress from heat or wind. Physiological curl from irregular watering is harmless - maintain consistent moisture. If leaves are also distorted or yellowed, it may indicate disease - remove affected plants to prevent spread.
What's the difference between determinate and indeterminate cherry tomatoes?
Determinate varieties grow to a fixed size (2-4 feet), produce all fruit at once, then decline - ideal for small containers and hanging baskets. Indeterminate varieties grow indefinitely (6+ feet with support), producing fruit continuously until frost - better for maximum harvest but require more space and support.
Why are my cherry tomatoes cracking?
Cracking occurs when plants receive heavy water after a dry period - the fruit expands faster than skin can stretch. Maintain consistent watering, mulch to retain moisture, and harvest promptly when ripe. Some cracking-resistant varieties are available. Minor cracks don't affect flavor or safety.
Should I remove suckers from cherry tomatoes?
For cherry tomatoes, sucker removal is optional. Leaving suckers produces more fruit (though smaller) which is fine for small cherry tomatoes. Removing suckers improves air circulation and can reduce disease pressure. Many gardeners let 2-3 main stems develop and remove additional suckers for best balance.
Why are flowers falling off without producing fruit?
Blossom drop is caused by temperature stress (below 55°F or above 90°F night temperatures), low humidity, over-fertilization with nitrogen, or insufficient pollination. Hand-pollinate by gently shaking plants or using a small brush. Maintain temperatures between 65-85°F and ensure balanced fertilization.
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