Fertilizing Guides
Feed your plants right for bigger harvests and healthier growth
Understanding NPK
Fertilizer labels show three numbers (e.g., 10-10-10) representing:
- • N (Nitrogen) - Leafy growth, green color
- • P (Phosphorus) - Root development, flowering, fruiting
- • K (Potassium) - Overall plant health, disease resistance
Plant-Specific Fertilizing Guides
Tomatoes
Heavy feeder • Every 2-3 weeks
Peppers
Moderate feeder • Every 2-3 weeks
Herbs
Light feeder • Monthly or less
Lettuce
Moderate feeder • Every 2-3 weeks
Cucumbers
Heavy feeder • Every 2 weeks
Squash
Heavy feeder • Every 2-3 weeks
Beans
Light feeder • At planting only
Carrots
Light feeder • At planting, once mid-season
Strawberries
Moderate feeder • 3x per year
Container Plants
Varies • Every 1-2 weeks
Organic vs. Synthetic Fertilizers
Organic Fertilizers
- • Compost, manure, fish emulsion
- • Release nutrients slowly
- • Improve soil structure over time
- • Lower burn risk
- • Support beneficial soil microbes
Synthetic Fertilizers
- • Granular, liquid, slow-release
- • Nutrients available immediately
- • Precise NPK ratios
- • Can burn plants if overused
- • Don't improve soil biology
General Fertilizing Tips
When to Fertilize
Fertilize in the morning when plants are actively growing. Avoid fertilizing during extreme heat or drought. Most vegetables need feeding during active growth, not at the end of the season.
Water Before & After
Water the soil before applying fertilizer to prevent root burn. Water again after granular fertilizers to help nutrients reach the roots.
Less Is More
Over-fertilizing is worse than under-fertilizing. It can burn roots, cause excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit, and pollute groundwater. Follow package directions and err on the side of less.
Signs of Nutrient Deficiency
Nitrogen (N)
Yellow leaves starting at bottom, stunted growth, pale green color overall.
Phosphorus (P)
Purple or reddish leaves, poor flowering/fruiting, stunted roots.
Potassium (K)
Brown leaf edges, weak stems, poor disease resistance.